Use sewing machine oil or another 
    light oil to thoroughly coat every part while the engine is disassembled.  The 
    parts don't need to be 
    dripping oil, but they do need to be coated.  Sewing machine oil is 
    safe for all parts of all engines that I am aware of.
    
      
        |  | The crankshaft and bearings must be in place before 
      anything else.  Shown here are the rear ball bearing (not all engines 
      have ball bearings) and an aluminum spacer having a purpose I have no idea 
      about.  But I know where it goes, so I don't need to know what it 
      does. The rear bearing is not sealed.  It can go in facing 
      either direction. | 
      
        |  | The rear bearing and spacer in place on the crankshaft. | 
      
        |  | The front ball bearing is sealed on one side.  The 
        sealed side faces out to keep dirt from entering the bearing and the 
        engine.  Shown here is the unsealed side of the bearing. | 
      
        |  | The sealed side of the front bearing.  Again, not 
        all engines have ball bearings.  Economy engines often have bronze 
        bushings that should not be removed. | 
      
        |  | The crankshaft is inserted into the engine through the 
        backplate opening.  The bearing is a tight fit and unable to seat.  
        To remove the bearing, the engine was heated in the oven. 
        Aluminum 
        expands more than steel so heating the engine allows the bearings to 
        fall out. The reverse is also true.  Heating the engine 
        allows the bearings to go back in place which was what was required 
        here.  I put the crankcase in a 250° 
        oven for about 10 minutes. Only the crankcase was placed in the 
        oven — not the crankshaft and bearing. | 
      
        |  | After heating the case the front bearing falls into place 
        easily.  The sealed side is out. | 
      
        |  | Heating the case allows the rear bearing to slide into 
        place more evenly.  However, you can see that it is not fully 
        seated. 
        When the crankshaft is seated properly the opening in the crankshaft will align with 
        the carburetor hole or at least be much closer. To remedy the 
        situation, I put the thrust washer on and then bolted a propeller to the 
        engine.  Tightening the propeller nut pulled the crankshaft and 
        rear bearing into place. | 
      
        |  | The piston, wrist-pin and connecting-rod.  Note the 
        cutout on the skirt of the piston.  This cut-out goes forward and 
        prevents the piston from contacting the rear bearing. In some 
        cases there is a relief at the back of the piston to prevent it from 
        contacting the backplate or the rear bearing.  This is why you need to examine your 
        engine before disassembling it.  Putting parts in backwards is easy 
        to do. Note that the connecting rod has two different size holes.  This 
        ensures that the right end is in the piston, but it can still be turned 
        around backwards.  This engine, for example, requires the connecting 
        rod to face a certain direction. If it is backwards, the engine 
        will not turn over.  Each engine is unique, so this may not be the 
        case with yours. | 
      
        |  | The assembled piston.  Note the oil hole in the bottom of the 
        connecting rod. | 
      
        |  | The piston goes into the engine before the liner.  If you put the 
        liner in first, you will not be able to put the connecting rod over the 
        pin on the crankshaft. | 
      
        |  | The engine is shown here upside down.  Most frequently, the pin on 
        the crankshaft has to be at its top position in order to put the 
        connecting rod on the crank-pin. | 
      
        |  | The connecting rod seated properly on the crankshaft pin. |