Airfield Models - How To

Make a Magnetic Building Board System to Build Model Aircraft

November 30, 2007



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Airfield Models (http://www.airfieldmodels.com/)Magnetic Model Aircraft Building System

I have been building with magnets for years and do not see myself ever going back to pinning things to a board.

For larger model aircraft (actually, any size), I think building with magnets is the best system ever introduced.  My thanks to Eldon J. Lind for introducing me to this idea.

Throughout this site you can see how I use this building system.  There are too many advantages to working with magnets that I can't document them all.  Study various photos on the site to see how I use them.

Some of the immediately apparent advantages are that magnets and fixtures can be placed anywhere on the board.  It is much more accurate to nudge fixtures into perfect position than it is to move a part over slightly and not have the pin go back into the same hole it was just in.

My best endorsement for building with magnets is that if there was a better system available I would use it.

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Sources of Materials

Steel building board

Two steel building boards.The board on the left is 24" x 60".  It is nice having extra room to place fixtures and on-the-fly magnetic jigs.

The Great Planes board to the right in this photo is 18" x 48" large enough for most aircraft fuselages up to .46 size.  Theirs is the first magnetic system I used and immediately I could see the potential if done properly.

I don't like the Great Planes system.  It is over-priced, comes with way too few magnets and the plastic accessories are junk.  Make your own system instead.

I went to a local metals supplier and asked them to cut 3 pieces of 22 gauge stainless steel.  The largest piece was 24" x 72".  The other two were 12" x 36".  I wanted a small board so I could work on tail feathers while building a wing or fuselage on the large board.  The second small board hangs on my shop wall to store magnets and fixtures.

Unfortunately, I found out that magnets don't stick to stainless steel.  The dealer swapped the boards for the same number and sizes of plain steel that is coated to receive paint.  The coating seals the boards from the environment so that they won't rust.  After a full season mine is showing a small amount of tarnish which is good because tarnish is not a problem and it's not rust.

I don't know this for a fact, but the surface pattern of galvanized steel looked like it would be distracting while building over it.  I didn't feel it was a good choice.

No matter what type of steel board you buy, make sure that magnets will stick and that it will conform to the workbench top which should be dead flat.  My workbench is already flat so I didn't need to buy a sheet of armor.  I'm very pleased with the thickness of my board because it conforms well and I can move it easily.

I clamp the board to the table top when I'm doing something that causes the board to move such as  sanding a structure trapped inside fixtures.

If the steel board you buy can rust, then I suggest you protect it with a couple coats of good car wax or a coat of Rustoleum paint.  Moving the magnets over the board will scratch the wax or paint off another reason to use an inexpensive pre-coated board.

I draw lines on the board with a Sharpie marker.  Wipe it up with alcohol.  The longer the lines are down, the harder they are to get up or a stronger solvent is necessary.

Magnets

A small steel board hung on the wall is an excellent way to store magnets and magnetic fixtures.The magnet that I have found most useful is a latch magnet.  These can usually be found anywhere cabinetry supplies are sold, but will be expensive if you buy them that way.

I purchase part number CA41LWH from The Magnet Source.  Each of these magnets is advertised to have 12 lbs of holding power with the metal plates attached.  I didn't measure the actual pull, but they stay in place - even when bending 3/8" square spruce.

The magnets are much less powerful without the plates, but are very useful in lighter duty applications.

40 magnets will not get you very far when you get deeper into using the system.

If you're serious about building then I suggest you order 200 magnets to start.  A set of 20 fixtures uses 80 magnets.  Once you start building a wing using 4 or more magnets to properly align each rib plus magnets to hold the spars, leading and trailing edges you'll understand why you need a lot of magnets.

Fixtures

I make fixtures from aircraft plywood.  They will last forever and can be passed to somebody else in the event you aren't immortal like I am.  You can use any material you want though; masonite, cheaper plywood, plastic sheet, etc.

The vertical presses are made from hardwood but would be fine from aircraft plywood.

Hardware used for fixtures

You can get all the hardware you need from Lowes or Home Depot with the exception of the #2 hardware used to attach the vertical presses.  Pick these up at your local hobby shop or from Micro Fasteners.

You'll need (2 ea) 10-24 x 1" bolts and nuts to attach magnets to the fixtures.  You don't need washers.

The vertical presses are held in place with a 2-56 bolt, washer and lock nut.

The press part of the vertical press is a 10-24 x 2" thumbscrew (or whatever bolt head shape you feel most comfortable turning by hand).

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Copyright © 2003 Paul K. Johnson